Your Questions Answered

  • If you’re inquiring about pest inspection and/or pest control, chances are you’ve tried to solve the issue yourself. While taking things into your own hands is great in some instances, pest control almost always requires more strategy and attention than you can give it. More often than not, homeowners tend to lack the expertise and time to handle most pest-related situations that are commonly encountered in or around a home.

  • In most cases, you can expect to see a significant and noticeable reduction in pest activity within one to two days. The exact timeframe depends on the pest being treated along with the choice of products necessary to provide the best long-term results.

    In some cases, you will actually see a slight increase in pest activity right after your initial treatment. This is a good sign! This means the pesticides are working. We have disrupted their normal breeding and feeding habits, and they are looking for a new place to live – the only difference now is that pesticide is all over them. They are not going to last long. Give it a week or two to die down, but give me a call if they persist past that time – I may need to give them another round.

  • The strongest products on the market last 60-90 days. Past this timeframe they biodegrade and become a part of the natural environment. The weather also affects the efficacy of the treatments – but not as much as you might think. Next time it rains, look at the base of your home; chances are, it’s still dry.  This means the barrier spray is still going strong. 

    I also apply granular insecticide with most perimeter treatments. The granular, which is water activated, actually benefits greatly from the rainfall. The rain helps the product to sink deeper into the soil where it can provide better protection.

  • I am probably in your area more often than you would think. You can expect a return call in hours, not days, where I will provide you with a time frame for your initial inspection and evaluation.

    I choose to treat just a few homes per day which not only allows extra time to do the job thoroughly, it also makes it much easier to respond quickly to time-sensitive pest issues.

  • 1. Exterior: Ensure your home is clutter-free from the foundation to 4ft out. Make sure nothing is leaning against or touching your home. This iincludes both items, property, shrubs, trees, flowers, firewood, etc. A 1-2ft gap is necessary so that I can do a thoroughly treatment at the foundation line..

    2. Inform Technician: If you find evidence of pests such as feces or damage, inform me when I arrive. Providing pictures can be helpful, especially if the pests are not visible during treatment.

    3. Food Storage (This step ONLY applies to services that include interior treatment): Cover and store open food, including pet bowls, and keep kids and pets toys out of areas to be treated to prevent contamination.

    4. Bonus Tip: Open windows prior to treatment to allow your technician to spray the inside of the window frames which helps control flying and crawling insects, especially for those who enjoy keeping windows open in nice weather.

  • YES! My first priority is the safety and happiness of your family, as well as being as environmentally friendly as possible. This is why I work with a focus on (IPM) Integrated Pest Management. The products we use are the same products that are used on sensitive areas, such as schools and hospitals and we are very conscious to never apply more product than necessary.

  • (This ONLY applies to services that include interior treatment). It is very rare that I will ask you to leave the home during or after treatment. Toddlers, Dogs and cats, however, should be brought to a safe place away from the treatment area inside the house. Oftentimes, treated surfaces need time to dry. This can be a problem if you’ve got a 2-year-old touching everything in sight and putting anything possible into their mouths. By advising me of any sensitive people, pets, fish ponds, food gardens, etc, that require extra care and attention, I will be able to avoid potential issues after your home is serviced.

  • Treatment time is based on 3 criteria. Type of pest, extent of infestation, and size/complexity of home. Certain pests take longer to deal with than others, and certain homes are larger and more complicated to service than others. Some treatments may only take 30 minutes while others may take up to 2 hours depending on the severity of the infestation and type of treatment that is needed.

  • Not in most circumstances. A lot of customers assume that pest products will be washed away during the rain. Contrary to popular belief, pest control treatments are rarely affected by typical rain or snow.

    Also, rain and light snow have been known to benefit pest control services by drawing insects out of their hiding spaces. As an added bonus, rain and snow, can enhance some products such as granular pellets, which require moisture to be effective. When broken down by moisture these pellets seep deeply into your soil, preventing crickets, earwigs, ants, and other unwelcome pests from laying eggs around your home. If you live in an area that regularly experiences abnormally harsh weather conditions, be sure to explain those conditions to your pest control professional.

  • All pest control treatments differ depending on the insect, level of infestation, time of year, and several other variables. That said, I cannot guarantee which product will be used for your service. I can, however, list a handful of the most commonly-used pest control products. These products include but are not limited to;

    Permethrin and Pyrethroids: Botanical insecticides derived from Australian and African chrysanthemum flower species. These insecticides work to paralyze and kill a robust range of insects, are some of the safest alternatives to humans and mammals, but are extremely toxic to aquatic organisms. If you have outdoor fish ponds or bodies of water, be sure to protect those areas from permethrin and pyrethroids, as they can really be damaging.

    Piperonyl Butoxide and MGK-264: Popular chemicals that are commonly added to other insecticide agents, such as permethrin and pyrethroids. These additives do not act alone as pesticides but are used to optimize the effectiveness of other chemicals by restricting insect metabolism. Classified as a potential carcinogen, consuming Piperonyl Butoxide has been known to cause diarrhea and vomiting.

    Hydramethylnon: Commonly used to bait termites, crickets, and ants, this insecticide is a subtle killer that has been known to kick in gradually over 3-5 days. Focusing on the long-term results, this product is popular in instances where large nests need to be dealt with. Posing little to no harm to humans, there have been cases where eye irritation has been a side effect of coming into contact with this product.

    Fipronil and Boric Acid: A white powder typically used to control ants, cockroaches, beetles, and other pests. It is derived from naturally occurring boron, posing with little-to-no risk to humans when handled appropriately.

  • Yes! Pest control can be crucial in the winter, especially in Harrisburg and the surrounding areas of Central Pennsylvania. Believe it or not, winter pests can sometimes be worse than summer pests.

    Although most flying insects are gone, this doesn’t mean that the threat of all pests is gone. The warmth of your home is particularly inviting to rodents and insects during the harsh temperatures of winter. This means they do whatever it takes to get inside. That is why it is important to do pest control during the winter. Not only can they be annoying, but also harmful to your health. Rodents can carry diseases, such as Salmonella and Hantavirus, spider bites can result in dangerous side effects, and cockroaches can prompt asthma and other allergies.

  • There are numerous ways that pests can enter a home. Ants, roaches, and even mice can enter through impossibly tiny cracks and crevices as they search for food and shelter. To lessen the chances of pests intruding into your home, be sure to keep any branches, shrubs, piles of firewood, decorative rocks, and any other aspect of landscaping well-maintained.

    Spiders, ants, and other pests have been known to use trees and shrubs as "bridges" to avoid the treatment area and make their way into your home undetered.

    Before applying any treatment, I will inspect and pinpoint potential problem areas that may need to be tended to, but it is your job to make sure that these areas get the alteration that they need.

  • That depends. In order to discuss this topic we must first learn about the difference between 1st and 2nd generation mice.

    What are 1st gen mice?
    These are mice that were born outside of your home and entered as adults. These mice may or may not be living (nesting) in your home.

    What are 2nd gen mice?
    These are mice that are born inside of your home and have spent their entire lives within your walls. These mice will never leave your home since they were born there.

    What do these differences mean to me?
    If you have 1st gen mice in your home they will sample the bait, feel sick to their stomachs, leave your house, and go back to their nest. If you have 2nd gen mice they will do the same, except their home is where they were born…which is your house. This means they are much more likely to die somewhere within your home, typically in the attic where the smell doesn’t bother anyone. Occasionally you will get a smell or two, which I call the “Smell of Success”. While it is not a good smell, it is a great indication that the treatment is working.

  • Yes, the bait I use is metabolized by the mouse so that it will never be transferred to your pet. I am also very careful about placement of bait stations. They are applied strategically in areas where mice are likely to encounter them, minimizing the risk of unintended exposure to people or pets. These baits are approved for use in hospitals and schools.

  • Treatment Timelines:

    A new infestation (8 or LESS weeks) may take 6-12 days to eradicate.
    An older infestation (8 or MORE weeks) may take 14-21 days to eradicate.
    A very active older infestation (EXTREME CASES) with high numbers of mice may take up to 2 months.

    These timelines are contingent on the 3 factors below. These are the main factors that can possibly extend the treatment timelines and can affect not only the length of time to eradicate, but my ability to give a 6-month guarantee.

    1. There is limited access to attic, basement, or utility rooms.
    I must be able to access all areas of the property, especially these locations. In many situations it is impossible to fully eradicate a home without access to the attic & basement.

    2. Unwillingness to correct conditions & follow recommendations.
    Customers will be given recommendations to reduce conditions that put their home at a higher risk of infestation - i.e. Trim overgrown landscaping, store pet food in sealed containers, move bird feeders farther from home, etc.

    3. Connected to another home: townhouse, duplex, apartment, etc.
    Similar to digging a hole in the sand with the sides always falling in, having another home attached to yours makes it very difficult to control all the variables. Unfortunately, If I am unable to treat the entire building (all units) I cannot offer a guarantee.

  • I guarantee your mouse problem will be gone for 6 months! If necessary, I will schedule a follow-up visit to assess the success of the treatment and make any needed adjustments. Follow-up visits are typically only necessary when the infestation is very active or quite large (extreme situations). The need for a follow-up appointment will be determined and quoted to you before starting your first treatment.

    It's important to note that the specific treatment plan may vary based on the severity of the infestation, the type of structure, and the preferences of the homeowner. I tailor my approach to the unique circumstances of your infestation.

    Exceptions: One or more of the following conditions would void the 6-month guarantee.

    1. There is limited access to attic, basement, or utility rooms.
    I must be able to access all areas of the property, especially these locations. In many situations it is impossible to fully eradicate a home without access to the attic & basement.

    2. Unwillingness to correct conditions & follow recommendations.
    Customers will be given recommendations to reduce conditions that put their home at a higher risk of infestation - i.e. Trim overgrown landscaping, store pet food in sealed containers, move bird feeders farther from home, etc.

    3. Connected to another home: townhouse, duplex, apartment, etc.
    Similar to digging a hole in the sand with the sides always falling in, having another home attached to yours makes it very difficult to control all the variables. Unfortunately, If I am unable to treat the entire building (all units) I cannot offer a guarantee.

  • The Anchor Pest Defense Rodent Service includes a full inspection of your home, a detailed explanation of exactly what was found, my suggestions for treatment & prevention, and a 6-month guarantee for most services (see previous question for exceptions to the guarantee).

    Under 2000sf = $180
    2000sf to 3000sf = $200
    3000sf to 4000sf = $220
    Over 4000sf = Custom

    Add-Ons:
    Interior Bait Stations = $3 (FIRST 12 FREE)
    Exterior Bait Station = $20
    Detached 1 car garage = $15
    Detached 2 car garage = $30
    Small Detached shop or shed < 500sf = $10
    Large Detached shop or shed > 500sf = $20

NO CONTRACTS

You will never be stuck in a long-term contract with Anchor Pest Defense. I don’t believe in them! I do, however, believe in free estimates and special pricing!

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INTEGRITY

As a veteran, I adhere to a strong moral and ethical framework, always striving to deliver more value than what my customers expect. Integrity guides everything I do, ensuring I meet the highest standards, even when no one is watching.

SAFETY FIRST

I prioritize your family's well-being with Integrated Pest Management. This approach blends minimal pesticide use with prevention strategies, using products proven safe for sensitive environments, ensuring balanced and effective pest control.